[KK Racing]

Thanks Bob

This just fits along the lines of good bushing/bearing seating and alignment procedures as would be done with any other manufacturers models.

Some if not all of the bearings in all of my Revo Slot cars purchased to date moved in and out of their holders quite easily. I don't think the movement was enough to cause much of a performance issue overall but now it's just one less thing to ever wonder or worry about. This along with the Gorilla tape trick found in the above video have my Revo Slots circulating the track very smoothly and quietly. I really enjoy these cars. They are well designed with lots of go fast parts and simply getting all four tires round should provide most with an excellent slotting experience. I must admit that I have never run one of these cars straight "Out of the Box" so I am completely unfamilar with the unpleasant noises others claim these make and I'm not doubting them for a moment. Things like bent axles, out of round pinions and spur gears do happen and these issues can drive one crazy trying to solve them. One other thing I do that is not mentioned in that great advanced tuning video is, once I have everything assembled the way I like and have the gear lash set correctly, I do put a small bead of Hot Glue along the motor and chassis to further secure the motor and dampen any vibration that may be happening in this area. All of the steps above including mounting and truing new rear tires were completed on all of my models prior to even breaking in the motors. I'm not in a big hurry to find out all of a slot cars faults and deficiencies when I know most of the issues that are going to arrise can be solved or cured using best tuning practices on the work bench prior to the car ever seeing a power block or the track. The power block tells allot, the track then tells all.

Cheers

 

[r377]

It should also be noted that these bearings become loose in the bearing/axle mounts over time. They will move in and out and spin in the holders. Without going into too much detail, and with the disclaimer "this is for advanced tuners, this is not recommended for everyone", I slide the bearing about half way out of the holder, put a small drop of ca glue on the top of the bearing using a toothpick and quickly and carefulIy slide it back into it's holder so they stay true and aligned. This must be done very quickly and carefully. Any CA glue in the bearing will obviously negate thier performance advantages. I set the bearings this way on all 4 corners prior to doing any other setup work. Loctite would also work well for this application and would give you a bit more time to get things aligned as it takes a little longer to set. The bearings fit quite well so very little ca glue or Loctite needs to be used to take up the fraction of space required to secure these bearings permanently.

Warning - Do Not get any CA Glue or Loctite in the bearings should you try this!

If your eye sight is poor and your hands shake, maybe skip this procedure all together.

Cheers

I had to do this too. A marshall put my car on the wrong lane and it got smashed at high speed. Every since then i been chasing a front end problem, mainly with the bearngs coming out. Like you, i carefully put glue to hold them into the bearing cups/carriers.

On to another question, ive seen some guys fronts spin really, really well.

What would you recommend to help with this ? polishing axles ? maybe dipping the bearings in something special overnight ?

thanks

 

[KensRedZed]

I am getting too old to use CA. I prefer 5-minute epoxy to give me time. I slide the bearings half way out of the saddle and use a toothpick to put several very small dots on the outside of the race. For plastic chassis, I keep an axle through the bearings so they are lined up by the axle and not the saddle after I press them into place. I can easily see the glue (with my trusty 3.25 reading glasses). It shouldn't run into the bearings if you only dot the outside of the bearing race.

I have one-hour epoxy for when I get really old. I also have 2 and 4-hour epoxy for those extra, extra, extra slow days.

 

[tamar.nelwan]

On to another question, ive seen some guys fronts spin really, really well.

What would you recommend to help with this ? polishing axles ? maybe dipping the bearings in something special overnight ?

thanks

Nothing special r377, just a 15-30 min soak in some Cellulose Thinner, Acetone or Brake fluid to wash out the stock grease in the ball bearings. I usually dump the axle mounts & bearings as one in the jar. Cellulose Thinner also removes any residual glue on the underside of the axle mounts.
After cleaning use a thin oil to lubricate the bearings and your axle should spin, and spin....

I am getting too old to use CA. I prefer 5-minute epoxy to give me time. I slide the bearings half way out of the saddle and use a toothpick to put several very small dots on the outside of the race. For plastic chassis, I keep an axle through the bearings so they are lined up by the axle and not the saddle after I press them into place. I can easily see the glue (with my trusty 3.25 reading glasses). It shouldn't run into the bearings if you only dot the outside of the bearing race.

I have one-hour epoxy for when I get really old. I also have 2 and 4-hour epoxy for those extra, extra, extra slow days.

A drop of oil on the axle, a drop of oil in the bearing...and a tiny drop of Slow CA from Zapp will do the trick. And if by age you do **** uppitiest, dump the whole assembly in Acetone and start over.

With kind regards
Tamar

 

[r377]

Nothing special r377, just a 15-30 min soak in some Cellulose Thinner, Acetone or Brake fluid to wash out the stock grease in the ball bearings. I usually dump the axle mounts & bearings as one in the jar. Cellulose Thinner also removes any residual glue on the underside of the axle mounts.
After cleaning use a thin oil to lubricate the bearings and your axle should spin, and spin....

A drop of oil on the axle, a drop of oil in the bearing...and a tiny drop of Slow CA from Zapp will do the trick. And if by age you do deleted uppitiest, dump the whole assembly in Acetone and start over.

With kind regards
Tamar

Thanks for the tips, could I also use shellite or automatic gearbox oil ?

 

[KK Racing]

I had to do this too. A marshall put my car on the wrong lane and it got smashed at high speed. Every since then I been chasing a front end problem, mainly with the bearngs coming out. Like you, I carefully put glue to hold them into the bearing cups/carriers.

On to another question, ive seen some guys fronts spin really, really well.

What would you recommend to help with this ? polishing axles ? maybe dipping the bearings in something special overnight ?

thanks

These are all good suggestions above. If your bearings are seated properly and turn freely but the axle is a little snug in the bearings a light polish will certainly help this condition especially if there happens to be a slight misalignment. Dealing with the front end assembly in these cars is no where near as critical as the rear assembly.

 

[tamar.nelwan]

Thanks for the tips, could I also use shellite or automatic gearbox oil ?

As long as its a thin liquid and has good degreasing properties...anything goes.
The axle mounts are anodized aluminium...no risk of damaging the color.

With kind regards
Tamar

 

[Albion]

Is everyone leaving the guide sprung? Ive replaced my spring with some washers. The car does seem to bounce around on Long straights. Wonder if I should just go back to the spring

 

[KK Racing]

On all of the models I have the guide seems to be at near perfect height when loosened just enough to turn freely with the spring left in. The action of the spring becomes pretty much negligible when compressed to this point and given the weight of these Revo cars any slight spring action it might have left in it doesn't effect performance any. That said, you can't beat a perfectly spaced or shimmed guide especially if your running on flat wood tracks. You should have a slight touch of spring in your braid so do you really want or need any more spring up front? Guide springs are popular with several manufactures which gives us options for different types of tracks and that's kind of a preference thing I guess but I pretty much freeze or remove them 99.9% of the time. If the front axle height was adjustable on these cars I would certainly use shims or spacers and adjust my front axle height accordingly.

 

[tamar.nelwan]

That's the best thing about SF (and webfora in general) the ability, with all due respect, to post opposing opinions

Due to their relative "heavy" chassis, the sprung guide on the RevoSlot cars is one that actually works as intended.

And in working as intended I mean that the spring pushes the guide down on the rails, instead of as with most (plastic) "lighter" slot cars, pushing the chassis up.

The sprung guide is also the reason why RevoSlot cars can be run on various Track/braid surfaces without the need to change the guide ride height set up.
Reason for me to retain the stock set-up for all of the RevoSlot Endurance Series "hand out" cars.

As for the lateral play of the guide, as can be seen here in the image below (Posted by Gerrit/ePilot) the Revoslot guide holder is a two part design which in combination with the tall stem on the guide and the guide screw keeps the guide secured and straight through out the whole of the guide suspension travel.

So if you want to save yourself a lot of (set-up) work...I would revert to the original Sprung Guide set-up.

With kind regards
Tamar

 

[GDSLOT]

That's the best thing about SF (and webfora in general) the ability, with all due respect, to post opposing opinions

Due to their relative "heavy" chassis, the sprung guide on the RevoSlot cars is one that actually works as intended.
And in working as intended I mean that the spring pushes the guide down on the rails, instead of as with most (plastic) "lighter" slot cars, pushing the chassis up.

The sprung guide is also the reason why RevoSlot cars can be run on various Track/braid surfaces without the need to change the guide ride height set up.
Reason for me to retain the stock set-up for all of the RevoSlot Endurance Series "hand out" cars.

As for the lateral play of the guide, as can be seen here in the image below (Posted by Gerrit/ePilot) the Revoslot guide holder is a two part design which in combination with the tall stem on the guide and the guide screw keeps the guide secured and straight through out the whole of the guide suspension travel.

So if you want to save yourself a lot of (set-up) work...I would revert to the original Sprung Guide set-up.

With kind regards
Tamar

Bravo maestro!

Cheers

 

[70250]

At the slot car centre that I race at in Melbourne, Australia we run the Revos with Slot.It foam tyres and we run on a wood track with spray glue.Since fitting the Plafit pinion the car has run quieter and has actually picked up a bit of speed as the diameter of the pinion is larger than the Revo brass pinion

Thanks - will try Playfit.

 

[tamar.nelwan]

Thanks - will try Playfit.

Make that Plafit, not playfit, you could also google Sigma as a supplier for the Plafit chassis.
Very similar and easier to source would be the nylon pinions from Scaleauto.

 

[GDSLOT]

Make that Plafit, not playfit, you could also google Sigma as a supplier for the Plafit chassis.
Very similar and easier to source would be the nylon pinions from Scaleauto.

Oh! I have some Scaleauto pinions mmmm... Maybe will give ir a try hehe.

Cheers

 

[r377]

Any updates with different pinions to try ?

What model number was the plafit ?

PLAFIT PINION GEARS 8511E - Brass 12T 50 Pitch pinion gear

 

[tamar.nelwan]

As with all "miscommunications" between pinion and gears...both parties can have a contributing factor.
Although I prefer the mesh of nylon pinions and nylon gears, an alternative route would be to swap the stock 33t Revoslot Nylon Gear with the BRM / Revoslot 33t Anglewinder Ergal Spur Gear which has the exact same diameter of 12.4mm ø.

With kind regards
Tamar

 

[John Stezelecki]

I have been enjoying reading these posts. I have many Revo slot cars. I probably have eight Porsches, ten Marcos, four Ferrari 333, three Ferrari F40, all the Supras and Vipers. Anyways, the reason I am mentioning this is that the only cars with noise issues are the Porsche 911 cars. All others are very smooth and do not have any sound issues. When the bodies are removed from the chassis the noise pretty much goes away when running the car on the track. Yes I have tried the Gorilla tape under the floating brass nuts. I have adjusted the gear mesh and lapped the gears. The only thing so far that I saw a difference in is with changing the tires to Quick Slicks. I have read about many remedies but with all the Revo cars I own only the 911 cars are an issue. WHY? No performance issues with the car. Thank You

Stez

 

[John Stezelecki]

Since I'm on the site I have another question. I noticed that the Revo chassis plate has four holes in the front of the plate. They match up to the holes on the body plate for the front axle holders. I do not see any advantage to move the front axle holders from the body plate to the chassis plate which would then put the rear axles and front axles on the same plane. So what is the purpose of the four holes on the front chassis plate?

 

[Brumos RSR]

Since I'm on the site I have another question. I noticed that the Revo chassis plate has four holes in the front of the plate. They match up to the holes on the body plate for the front axle holders. I do not see any advantage to move the front axle holders from the body plate to the chassis plate which would then put the rear axles and front axles on the same plane. So what is the purpose of the four holes on the front chassis plate?

I'm curious about how the different size brass nuts work as well as running the car with springs between the nuts and chassis.

 

[tangerinedream]

Details on slot car passion website of the next three Porsche gt1 /96 models.
The JB racing Marlboro sponsored car as running in 1997.
I'll probably get the Le Mans #29 car.