I haven't but I do know there are a lot of Lexan interiors around for it (LHD though).

 

Not tuned, but have lowered it a little which improved the cornering with the magnet removed.

 

I put Ninco wheels and tyres on mine but to be honest it's not made much difference - it's like it has got a mind of its own!

In all seriousness it's a little devil to keep off its roof even with the magnet in. The full depth interior precludes putting any weight in but I've recently invested in some Tungsten putty and will have a go at shaving the interior floor to make space for a bit of weight beneath.

Apart from wheels, paint and decals it's standard.

 

it's a little devil to keep off its roof even with the magnet in. The full depth interior precludes putting any weight in but I've recently invested in some Tungsten putty and will have a go at shaving the interior floor to make space for a bit of weight beneath.

No need to shave anything as there's plenty of space for weight without any internal modification.

This is my club racing Beetle; two years of magnet-free racing and incredibly the only damage is the loss of the driver's mirror. Even the glued in roof spotlight remains in situ.

I can't remember exactly how much lead has been added, but by the looks of it I'd guess it's a heck of a lot, somewhere around 15 to 20 grammes. I just kept increasing the weight until the car started to slide in corners instead of rolling over. It was set up on Ninco track, so lower grip surfaces probably wouldn't need so much weight.

The magnet, lights and DPR stuff have been removed, the guide swapped for a Scaleauto one, the front axle chassis holes have been ovalised so there's 0.75mm of vertical travel, the rear tyres are the originals, glued and trued and the rear axle is glued in, but that's all. With its FF motor it's rapid, but the added weight means braking is abysmal, but amusing. It's a surprisingly enjoyable car to race.

 

TOP?

Seriously nice set of mods though... Is there not an FF with better brakes?

 

Have you never refitted an FF motor upside down so that the bloody thing runs backwards? I have, hence TOP. It's shorter than THIS WAY UP, which won't fit on the can!

 

I've struggled with that , but without trying it surely it don't make any difference which way up it is . Tomorrow will try and apologize
Steve

 

These are a lot of great tips, David.
I will try to follow that path, but keeping it digital.
I also like that lowered car from Andyslot.

So let's see what I can do...

 

This is inspiration!

I NEED to do this...

noddaz

 

I've struggled with that , but without trying it surely it don't make any difference which way up it is . Tomorrow will try and apologize
Steve

If you've not removed the wires from the guide and they've remained soldered to the motor, then no, it won't make any difference which way up the motor is. However, if you've disconnected them and then reconnect them, they need to go positive to positive, negative to negative.

On most motors, including the FF, there's a little bit of red paint next to one of the motor's terminals that indicates which way round the motor should be wired, but I can never remember which is which, hence TOP on the motor.

 

Cheers mate ,saves me faffing about tomorrow .
Steve

 

I widened the stance just a bit, but the best upgrade was replacing the scaley motor with a Minnow. It is quite drivable now.

 

Finished this little devil now. Boy - this thing is pure evil but sooo much fun! That pic shows how it drives...with the back out...a LOT

I put lead where the magnet once was...and two layers of lead on both sides ob the motor and behind the guide. I cut down the interieur drastically. Well after all it is gonna be a racecar...so we only need one drivers seat - not more. The remains were glued in. The driver now sits on the left side (sorry...I am used to driving on the left)

I slimmed down the chassis all around to help the body float, cut down the body-posts 1,5mm to get the body lower.

Before all that the chassis was 44g, now it weighs 63g

I finally sanded down the tires to 19,5mm diameter to get that thing even lower.

And to set it apart from the stock beetle I gave mine an orange stripe and painted the drivers helmet. Now the test drive: It lapped my track a whopping 1.6 seconds faster than in stock-form (without magnet) and thats with the stock-tires which are not that great really.. That is mostly because it no longer rolls at the mere sight of the curve anymore and follows the slot a lot better.

It still tumbles if you overdo it, but life is much easier now. Now I am waiting for a set of PU-rear tires to get the times even lower.

 

Waiting to get delivery of my rusty yellow Beetle. Thinking of shoe-horning an FC130 inside there to replace the FF. I know the interior will need some surgery but, so be it.

 

I have a couple of Scalextric Beetles that I've twonked around with in a quest for improved track performance. The usual things, after removing the magnet, include wider rear tyres and lots of chassis weight, and the result is passable.

However, I'd recommend conversion to a PCS adjustable chassis with 18/20k Mabuchi and 13in PCS wheels and tyres. For anyone who might be interested, I've recently posted a step-by-step guide about building such a car in the scratchbuilding section. It uses an Airfix body, but any Beetle shell can be adapted, including Scalextric's.

Building such a car only requires time and patience, and is well worth the effort, because the difference in track performance is nothing short of astonishing. Go for it, say I.

 

I have a couple of Scalextric Beetles that I've twonked around with in a quest for improved track performance. The usual things, after removing the magnet, include wider rear tyres and lots of chassis weight, and the result is passable.

However, I'd recommend conversion to a PCS adjustable chassis with 18/20k Mabuchi and 13in PCS wheels and tyres. For anyone who might be interested, I've recently posted a step-by-step guide about building such a car in the scratchbuilding section. It uses an Airfix body, but any Beetle shell can be adapted, including Scalextric's.

Building such a car only requires time and patience, and is well worth the effort, because the difference in track performance is nothing short of astonishing. Go for it, say I.

Thanks for those tips Trisha. I'll keep them in mind although I'm not such a big fan of the PCS chassis, having used one for a Mk1 Escort some time ago.