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High Power variable voltage mod for C7042 APB

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111K views 322 replies 63 participants last post by  RikoRocket  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
How would you like SH type power, the ability to adjust voltage all for next to nothing? Yes? Well read on!

You need
Craft knife
Soldering iron
solder sucker
2x R010 resistors

Difficulty level 2/10 easy enough for teenagers or adults.

Stage one, remove power connector, bend up a leg and refit.

Use solder sucker to remove solder.
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Be careful there is a small track on the connector side. If it breaks just use a wire to link from the diode to the side leg.
Prise connector up when all solder has gone
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bend up the end leg
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Solder back onto board with remaing two legs and solder a thick wire to the bent up leg. Feed wire through 5 volt regulator hole as shown
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Stage 2, cut track and solder wire to it
flip board over and with the craft knife cut through the large track shown, cut back and forth until it is cleanly cut. Check with a meter if you have one
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Scrape off some of the green stuff and tin the track with some solder. Now solder the wire to the track
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Stage 3, add two resistors to double the current trip point
Identify the two resistors R010 in the centre of this photo. Add extra solder either end as shown.
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Now solder your new R010 resistors (size 2512) directly on top.

Use a standard C7024 power supply for the untouched connector (this powers the computer)
Use a 0-15V 20-30 Amp power supply for the modified connector (this goes to the power section)

 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Riko this looks fantastic, reckon I need an appointment to the eye specialist to get new glasses so I can attempt this, or talk to my local electronics guys and offer them a slab of beers
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Can't wait for you guys to figure out how to get RichG's laptower working with the APB if at all possible.

I reckon I'm now a convert from PB Pro SH to APB C7042, great work guys, brilliant, absolutley brilliant
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#6 ·
Good question, analogue mode still functions.
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The ability to up the voltage can cause a problem with some cars in analogue mode, it is a "feature" of the standard system as well at full chat, but is difficult to notice.
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We are investigating this, it might be that we add a capacitor or take out an inductor.

Digital mode is 100%, and analogue works fine for some cars.
For affected cars you can still have the increased current, but you need to keep volts down to normal.

So not a "numpty" question at all
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#7 ·
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
#10 ·
Like Billy Cart, I had trouble seeing what was done in Stages 2 & 3.
Any chance there would be a closeup diagram showing what goes where?

Thanks for the great work.... Now to appease the dual analogue fans.

Cheers!
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#11 ·
Very Nice Indeed!

Riko, would you (or 'others') be offering this upgrade as a service, for those of us who aren't so accurate with the soldering iron?
(Please feel free to PM answer if more appropriate)
Cheers,
Richard
 
#14 ·
Thanks, Riko.

Excellent work, as usual.

Cheers!
Image
 
#15 ·
Cut and tinning an area ready for the cable

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Position of the two R010 resistors - here I have added solder ready for the additional resistors

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Finally with the new resistors in place

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#16 ·
Cut and tinning an area ready for the cable

Image


Position of the two R010 resistors - here I have added solder ready for the additional resistors

Image


Finally with the new resistors in place

Image
 
#18 ·
There is a track that is only half a millimetre thick that runs under the connector. It is used for detecting that a connector is fitted (to allow two lane analogue for example). Unless you clean all the solder from the connector legs then as you remove it you are likely to pick up the tiny track with the connector. Thats not the end of the world. Just cut it and discard the track. then when the connector is resoldered in place run a tiny signal type wire from the end of the diode that the track went to, to the connector side leg. I'll show a picture later.
 
#19 ·
That took me back! I have stood in the room where they make these - I'm an ex-Vishay employee (have to be carefull, saying that is the equivalent of "Voldermort" in my current employers!).

http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-dale/wsl2512r...053?Ntt=1470053

+2 for the post off and pay brigade! I'd be happy apart from soldering the new wire to the track.
 
#20 ·
So with a potential demand for quite a lot of these can you get an ex-employee discount??
 
#22 ·
QUOTE (RikoRocket @ 27 Jun 2011, 23:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Finally with the new resistors in place

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Arghhh....
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I cannot see any difference! Do you see a difference? I see the R010 pieces but where is the added resistor? Is is parallel to the R010 resistors?

Must be my old eyes failing me or ....?
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Sorry for the rant... but I don't think this is a 2/10 mod if you have poor eyesight.

Cheers!
Image
 
#23 ·
They're piggy-backed/stacked on top. In the first pic you can see the old ones labeled R010. In the second one you can see they're a little messier, and have a R01F printed on them.
I can see what is being done, but I'm not sure I'd be capable of doing it. I might just have to send away for it if I can't muster the courage to try it myself. ;-)
 
#24 ·
QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 28 Jun 2011, 19:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>you can see they're a little messier,
Image
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it was a little tricky getting the soldering iron onto them
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#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks, Mr. F.

Could not see the forest for the trees in this case.

I might pass on this too.... rather than ruin an APB....

There are so many mods coming right now.... In-Car Pro. etc. .... it may be worthwhile letting the dust settle first.

Cheers!
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#26 ·
It is easily reversed if you want to put the APB back to standard.

Let the dust settle? Too many mods? I thought people wanted this one...
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