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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Didn't expect to start an arguement over which is & isn't the best track lol !!
To answer the questions, I have classic Scalextric track, but will need more as I haven't got what I need. Thanks for the help and comments.
 
Threads do have a tendency to meander sometimes. Way back in post #3 I mentioned the "slap my slotcar" article - if you haven't read it yet I urge you to take a look. It made a big difference to how well my tracks work. Once clean then Inox mx3 will protect against rust for longer than other mineral oils because it evaporates waaaaaaay slower than the others.
 
Seeing the Classic is so cheap, and the rails come out very easily, I wonder if it would be viable to get a heap of rails only re-chromed?
The quality of chrome would be superior too and would probably outlast you. Just a thought.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Update - cleaned track & removed the pieces with any rust patches. Joints were checked aswell - Result - no difference !! I have one lane working well, and one which shows signs of power, but not enough to move the car. I've even got each lane running on a separate power pack but this hasn't helped either. The rails do look dull and tarnished, but the are on the lane which is working fine. I've read the slap my slot car article, and looked and model railway track cleaners, but I'm not sure what the problem is here. Can anyone maybe give me a clue what the problem could be ? Thankyou.
 
I assume you have switched ALL relevant parts from one lane to the other!!! controller, car, lane connecters, and that you are not using any lane jumpers/extension leads any off these could be the cause of a short.
Turn all of the track power of, and, using a 9volt pp9 battery, you should be able to drive a car all the way around the track, you should note where the car slows, then bellwire the joint where this happens, continue this, and you should get perfect continuity.
This will apply to all tracks including digital.
Regards
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Zen
 
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