Brabham BT46 Policar gearbox conversion for Scalextric models
How to:
So as ever you will need a donor car. Scalextric helpfully gave me a pre-production prototype so some of my photos show that. In order to check final fit I also converted my liveried car once it had arrived.
Please note this will not work with the 46B (fan car ) variant.
This conversion is NOT reversible for the donor car as the body has to be modified.
1. Disassembly:
Disassemble the Scalextric car by removing all screws. You will need the top body and rear wing.
All other elements can be put in the parts bin.
2. Cutting the body:
Cut off the front suspension first.
Then you will need to cut out part of the underside of the front of the car as shown:
Once done cut off the rear gearbox, just leaving the body as shown:
Remember to cut a little first and then keep reviewing the fit of the chassis.
Once the chassis fits smoothly in position without any ‘force’, and is flush at the bottom you are there.
3. Assemble the other components:
A. You will need a complete Policar gearbox (narrow type ’80 PCH08-51z17 is best). This can be assembled from all the components or more economically bought as a single piece.
If using the earlier type with the rear gearbox detail e.g. PCH01-51z17 this will need to be cut off at the bulkhead.
B. Rear wheels and tyres:
Option 1:
Pendle Slot Racing in the UK:
PCS Classic 1/32 Scale 13" F1 Rear Alloy Wheels 11.5x14mm x2
Ref : PCS-32131114
PCS Scalextric Replica F1/Saloon Large Slicks 21x14mm F22 x4
Ref : PCS-321413t
Option 2:
Policar Aluminium F1 Monoposto Rear Wheels 13.8x13.5
Ref : PW13813519A
Policar G25 F1 Monoposto Slick Rear Tyres Dwg 1224
Ref : PPT1224G25
The design diameter is 20-21mm.
C. Front wheels and tyres
Policar wheels part no. PW13807921P are the only wheels that will fit this conversion as they have the inner recess, all other wheels will make the front track too wide.
Use tyres Slot.it PT1088C1
D. Compatible Chassis available here: ARCO by conti_rowland - Shapeways Shops
E. Front axle - length 51mm. I found the front axle to be slightly tight in the chassis so used a 3/32 reamer to ease it for a perfect fit. I prefer to leave the chassis a bit tight rather than make them too loose so that the adjustment can be done by the purchaser.
F. Guide, braid and wires. I recommend a thin wire and very thin braid.
I use Slot.it screw in guide SICH85d (the older SICH85 appears discontinued now).
G. Screws, there are numerous types available and you probably have some in your parts bin! I used the screws off the donor car which fit fine.
4. Chassis assembly:
A. Dry fit the guide to the chassis making sure it rotates freely. The tolerances are fine so I needed to trim around the inside of the guide drum to ensure free rotation.
Assemble the wires and braids and then screw the guide down, again ensuring it freely rotates.
B. Fitting the gearbox is a tiny bit tricky. It requires bending the exhausts quite a lot!
Insert the motor pod from the underside twisted and push the two rear exhausts over the top of the rear axle.
Andi
Finally, as it moves forward lift the suspension up over the rear axle to allow the whole thing to slip into place.
The rear exhausts can be bent a fair bit without breaking and I’ve done the same one a few times to check it won’t break with fatigue!
C. Secure the motor mount with the two front screws.
D. Pull through the wires under the front bulkhead so they don’t foul the front axle.
Complete chassis and running gear assembly.
7. Final assembly
One screw at the front and two amidships should be tightened / semi tightened and the bottom of the chassis should align with the bottom of the body.
The rear wing should push into the hole at the back of the gearbox.
Fit the wheels and tyres and go and test!
I hope you enjoy this lovely Scalextric _Andi Rowland_Policar production!
Andi
How to:
So as ever you will need a donor car. Scalextric helpfully gave me a pre-production prototype so some of my photos show that. In order to check final fit I also converted my liveried car once it had arrived.
Please note this will not work with the 46B (fan car ) variant.
This conversion is NOT reversible for the donor car as the body has to be modified.
1. Disassembly:
Disassemble the Scalextric car by removing all screws. You will need the top body and rear wing.
All other elements can be put in the parts bin.
2. Cutting the body:
Cut off the front suspension first.
Then you will need to cut out part of the underside of the front of the car as shown:
Once done cut off the rear gearbox, just leaving the body as shown:
Remember to cut a little first and then keep reviewing the fit of the chassis.
Once the chassis fits smoothly in position without any ‘force’, and is flush at the bottom you are there.
3. Assemble the other components:
A. You will need a complete Policar gearbox (narrow type ’80 PCH08-51z17 is best). This can be assembled from all the components or more economically bought as a single piece.
If using the earlier type with the rear gearbox detail e.g. PCH01-51z17 this will need to be cut off at the bulkhead.
B. Rear wheels and tyres:
Option 1:
Pendle Slot Racing in the UK:
PCS Classic 1/32 Scale 13" F1 Rear Alloy Wheels 11.5x14mm x2
Ref : PCS-32131114
PCS Scalextric Replica F1/Saloon Large Slicks 21x14mm F22 x4
Ref : PCS-321413t
Option 2:
Policar Aluminium F1 Monoposto Rear Wheels 13.8x13.5
Ref : PW13813519A
Policar G25 F1 Monoposto Slick Rear Tyres Dwg 1224
Ref : PPT1224G25
The design diameter is 20-21mm.
C. Front wheels and tyres
Policar wheels part no. PW13807921P are the only wheels that will fit this conversion as they have the inner recess, all other wheels will make the front track too wide.
Use tyres Slot.it PT1088C1
D. Compatible Chassis available here: ARCO by conti_rowland - Shapeways Shops
E. Front axle - length 51mm. I found the front axle to be slightly tight in the chassis so used a 3/32 reamer to ease it for a perfect fit. I prefer to leave the chassis a bit tight rather than make them too loose so that the adjustment can be done by the purchaser.
F. Guide, braid and wires. I recommend a thin wire and very thin braid.
I use Slot.it screw in guide SICH85d (the older SICH85 appears discontinued now).
G. Screws, there are numerous types available and you probably have some in your parts bin! I used the screws off the donor car which fit fine.
4. Chassis assembly:
A. Dry fit the guide to the chassis making sure it rotates freely. The tolerances are fine so I needed to trim around the inside of the guide drum to ensure free rotation.
Assemble the wires and braids and then screw the guide down, again ensuring it freely rotates.
B. Fitting the gearbox is a tiny bit tricky. It requires bending the exhausts quite a lot!
Insert the motor pod from the underside twisted and push the two rear exhausts over the top of the rear axle.
Andi
Finally, as it moves forward lift the suspension up over the rear axle to allow the whole thing to slip into place.
The rear exhausts can be bent a fair bit without breaking and I’ve done the same one a few times to check it won’t break with fatigue!
C. Secure the motor mount with the two front screws.
D. Pull through the wires under the front bulkhead so they don’t foul the front axle.
Complete chassis and running gear assembly.
7. Final assembly
One screw at the front and two amidships should be tightened / semi tightened and the bottom of the chassis should align with the bottom of the body.
The rear wing should push into the hole at the back of the gearbox.
Fit the wheels and tyres and go and test!
I hope you enjoy this lovely Scalextric _Andi Rowland_Policar production!
Andi