Why?

You can't scale weight as density isn't affected, neither gravity.

 

Weight became a secondary consideration once the tyres were coated. Anyway, why? Why not! Many folk into into rallying may be interested in methods to help replicate loose surfaces without physically messing up their cars and track.

 

Just in case anyone else feels stupid asking, I'll take the hit: Why wouldn't scale weight be 1:32 of the real car ?
TBH, irrelevant as the slot car is a lot faster when scaled than a real car, but maybe one avenue you may like to explore for fun is to match the weight balance (F/R) of the real car ?

 

Savage - it’s not stupid, but if you think about it, would you expect an apple to be half the weight of a melon? Half the diameter is 1/8 of the weight.

The mass of something is made up from the length, the width and the height. If you reduce it to 1/32 scale, it is 1/32 of the length, 1/32 of the width and 1/32 of the height, so the mass is 1 divided by 32 divided by 32 divided by 32 times the original mass, as Jeepster says.

There’s a whole science around reduced scales, which is very familiar to all the dark forces working on modern aerodynamic design of full size racing cars. For example, we don’t change the air density or temperature for our slotcars…….try Googling ‘Reynolds Number’.

Mike

 

Exactly, why would anyone be remotely bothered about scale weight when a slot cars components aren't remotely like a 1:1 version?

What I will say though is my 1/32 Rally cars go best around 90-100g depending on the cars size.

 

Why? To keep the dream alive is my guess.
The OP wants less grip so the cars corner more realistically, no?
As a previous poster mentioned, experimenting with weight placement might bring the rewards you want. ie more weight up front = less rear traction.
And forget the scale weight thing.

 

The Scalextric ‘drift cars’ do this very well.
Mike

 

Yes 'mass = density x volume' is easy except a 1:1 car has a metal body, metal engine, metal gearbox, a human driver and fuel...whilst a 1/32 Slot car has a plastic body, a dc electric motor, plastic gears, half a plastic driver (at most) and no fuel.

So which material are you using for density in that equation?

 

Anyone wanting minimal grip with just a little friction to replicate a rallying, 'off-balance' driving style need look no further than the standard tyres fitted to Fly and Carrera cars. I've got ' undreds of the wretched things. Been meaning to make 'em into track barriers, but find it difficult to be bothered.

 

But in fact the best and least messy method I've found of replicating rallying in 1/32 scale is tyre treatment (as opposed to doing anything with the track, in my case Policar). Painting the rear tyre treads with Humbrol satin varnish once fully dry provides a slippy surface enough to limit traction but not ruin grip altogether. It's a bit hit and miss, some tyres requiring a second coat. But with the weight adjustment as well it's a pretty good rallying effect.

As that produces the result you want, stick with it and don't worry about trying to calculate scale anything.
Trying to scale weight,, speed, acceleration etc.inevitably opens up a can of worms. It needs rather a lot of technical understating to do it properly....we can all enjoy slot cars without any need to get into all that. .... just as well because most people have no need to delve into that specialized technical understating

 

Interesting one slicks Vs grooves.

We had a run anything , but not a turbo nutter car, Friday night at N Staffs recently, dug out a 1990s Spanish SRS2 Mazda for some fun, it was quicker and more fun on the original grooved tyres than the SRS slicks of equal vintage I took along.

The original weedy motor couldn't cope with extra grip.

 

As has been mentioned above, reducing slot car tyre width can improve grip. At our scale the contact patch pressure is much less than a full sized tyre. If that pressure is increased by using a narrower tyre, the rubber can more easily be squished down into the surface texture of the track and this can increase mechanical grip.

It all depends on car weight, centre of gravity height, track surface type and texture, and rubber hardness. Suck it and see!

 

The old 'thin tyres are more grippy' subject.

Of course where they lose out is in corners and much higher rate of wear...BUT although wide tyres are always quicker round our 3 lane routed track for Rally purposes you don't need anything over 10mm wide as the extra grip is usually detrimental to getting round sharp bends.

If you want controlled sliding get Urethanes as the grip seems super consistent right up to the point they're worn out.

 

Narrow track, narrow (Mitoos) tyres, fabulous grip.