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Scalextric Sport track connection tips needed . . .

2.9K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  Expidia  
#1 ·
Problem: In another thread where I posted I was having bursts of unwanted speed when passing over my Arc Pro, then I was also finding dead track sections.
In fact I found a portion of my 2nd lane was totally dead.

Posters (thx beardy) alluded me to the fact that I was having new electrical connection issues.
This was new to my layout and I traced it back to the 1/2 the track sections popping off the hold down puck system and twisting when I was lowering it off the wall where I store the layout vertically.

I have several times tightened all the metal tabs under each track section because 1/2 the sections were from a 20 year old set.

I've broken the layout down yet again, piece by piece and finding many floppy loose male pins (so loose like they are almost like they are not connected to the rails) and also raised female ends of the track which causes the clicking when cars pass over it. Now I can also see why my NSR cars were having sections of the pink motor wrap lifted because the motor is so low it's catching on these raised track connections.

Now I can see on closer inspection that those male pins are held in by only the overlapping of the rail. I thought before they were part of a metal rod system that went through each track section. Now I can see the rail itself is just in the shape of a lower case "n" with attached metal tabs to hold it to the plastic track.
Previously, I thought a metal rod ended into a male pin. Now I can see the male pin is just a pin crimped in place by the n shaped metal rail.

So all my efforts in the past pressing down on the metal tabs helped a little but I never got to the real root of the issue for a good connection, which was to make sure that male pin was solidly crimped and that the female section was also being tightly held down to the track too. Many of the ends of female sections are loose too causing not only a bad connection, but a raised rail where sections came together.

I can now also see that raising two sections up at any height to connect them back together is the worse thing I could have done to the connection ends. Do this just once and I was left with floppy male pegs all over again.
Pure laziness, when I needed to remove or replace a section instead of track instead of working the other sections away to the left and right . . . I've just bent up sections to connect them together (big mistake). Now I can see this Scalextric track design must be kept flat at all times.
And then the tracking popping off the hold downs loosened many many end connections.

So sorry for the long explanation of the problem (I hope this helps other newbies understand how these tracks fit together and how not to destroy the electrical connections), but what tips should I do before I reassemble the layout since I'm using both the pucks and the Scalextric track clips and I don't want to have to break it down yet again for dead sections or raised rails.

.1 Is there any tips or products to clean any oxidation off the connections before I reassemble?
There must be some type of oxidation or film just due to the 20 year old ages of some sections. I don't want to wipe them with say steel wool for fear of removing the finish. What would be a good product to clean the track end connections with? I have some small wire brushes that I was thinking of lightly pushing in and out of the female connection followed by dielectric grease.

.2 I have Inox (great stuff), but just wiping the connections with Inox I'm thinking that it won't last as long as using dielectric grease I have in stock (pictured).

So that's where I'm at before re-assembly. I'm tightening all tabs and making sure those male pins are held in place solidly now along with the female track ends. I still need to somehow clean the connections up and then wipe with dielectric grease.

Any suggestions welcome.

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#2 ·
Thats about all I do now, as I have to fix a section make sure it's tight and strait a little of that same grease and back together! I've only started doing this but haven't had any problems with those parts of the track since!
Cheers,
John.
 
#5 ·
Thx vfr. Those look like just the ticket. I’ll try and locate some on this side of the pond to get them quicker.
Makes a lot of sense as no matter how much you tighten them the connections loosen again because the tabs are of such a thin metal stock.
These power boosters might take a little slack up with the connections.

I think I’ll also order a spray can of tuner cleaner to remove any oxidation from 20 years.
 
#4 ·
Part of the problem is your baseboard. An unsupported sheet of plywood is going to flex and that is what's making the track pop off the 'pucks'. If you look at just about any baseboard build, slot car or railway, you will see they all have support framework underneath with cross braising to stop any twisting. This is even more important with a fold up board.

One option as this is now a permanent layout is to wire jumpers on each rail across the joints, that way any track flexing won't effect the conductivity.

The power boosters John linked to will help but any flexing may make them lift up out of the track.

I think that until you have eliminated any baseboard flexing you are probably wasting you time with other solutions, apart from the jumper wires.
 
#14 ·
Part of the problem is your baseboard. An unsupported sheet of plywood is going to flex and that is what's making the track pop off the 'pucks'. If you look at just about any baseboard build, slot car or railway, you will see they all have support framework underneath with cross braising to stop any twisting. This is even more important with a fold up board.

One option as this is now a permanent layout is to wire jumpers on each rail across the joints, that way any track flexing won't effect the conductivity.

The power boosters John linked to will help but any flexing may make them lift up out of the track.

I think that until you have eliminated any baseboard flexing you are probably wasting you time with other solutions, apart from the jumper wires.
My board is 1/2 inch better grade plywood with another 1/4 inch plastic molding around most of the perimeter.
I avoided adding wood underneath framing to keep the weight down since it hangs off a wall for storage.

We rent so the next place will have a basement and I’ll double the layout size and frame it in.

I realized why the track popped off the pucks. When I went to lower it off the wall the top of the ARC Pro just caught the rolled up bamboo shade I use to hide the board when stored.

I’ll still use both pucks and track clips now for added storage safety.
 
#6 ·
I recently purchased the Scalextric Lap Timer that had the Classic to Sport Track 1/2 section option. This was to be used with Classic Track.
I also found connectivity problems with the Sport Track male pin. I resolved to add a dab of solder to secure the pin in place and stop it wobbling around. Seems like poor design.
 
#8 ·
Image

I agree for sure on the poor design. IMO each one of those male pins should be as you say "soldered" to the rails rather than just crimped at the end of the hollow rails.

Maybe I'll buy a $6000 Spot Welder and spot weld every connection.
Then I could rent it out to other Scalextric Sport track owners to try and recover my investment ;););)
 
#16 ·
If you are moving the track on it's side for storage I would not use the PSR metal connectors for power taps as they come lose and if one falls down and shorts out track you could spend a lot of time trying the find where the short actually is.

Soldering flexible 18AWG silicon wire for all 4/6/8 lanes is best IMO.

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#17 ·
When you have done this everywhere in your track you will notice the power drop when going over LCs. ;-)

XLCs for example have two drops where the car briefly loses power and you can at average speed clearly see the car getting a boost when it's hitting rails again and I've never really noticed it before the full power taps went in.

When you're driving at speed it's not really noticeable and at full tilt it's gone.

Took me over two weeks to complete the taps and many many metres of wire, seeing as you should only ever have to do this once for your layout I would recommend doing it.
 
#18 · (Edited)
As I might have mention mentioned maybe in another thread that even though I attached the layout to the wall it's not permanent. So soldering would be wasted time for me since the next house will have a basement and I'll double my layout size. So far, from what I've done already with cleaning and tightening up each connection it's working great again. . . so far.
 
#19 ·
Update: I still was seeing that burst of speed just before the ARC. I opened up one of the small covers
under the ARC because pressing on that area of the track surface above the cover would also temporarily smooth out some car hesitation around my first turn and another turn further along the layout. The connections looked OK.

But I did have a spare ARC Pro and swapped it out with this questionable one.
Looks like the issue is now solved. Also, these issues were happening before with analog or digital cars and with most of my collection, so this ruled out braid issues.
 
#27 ·
In the end after all my ferreting out any potential issues … my problem turned out to be out to be a result of a few small Scalextric metal track clips that were floating around under the track especially the first turn where I found two of them probably shorting out the rail at times.