In theory this should allow you to limit speed by limiting voltage BUT check the voltage and amperage of the controller.

Some train controllers go up to 18v and that could be bad news for cars with lights. Some train controllers only push out 1 Amp which is nowhere near enough for 2 cars accelerating hard off the line and could cause a power surge to the remaining car when one deslots (thus causing the other car to deslot).

If the train controller pushed out 4 Amps or more then it could be a good option for standard motored cars.

I used to use a H&M controller to true tyres until I got a bench supply but I use a PSU I bought from Pendles to power my track it varies from 10v-15v and pumps out 15A - more than enough for 6 cars on a digital track.

 

I have done exactly that on a previous track and had no problems at all.

 

I have an H & M control unit fed by a battery charger to control my circular test track. It works well for fine control of speed but my understanding is that it does not control the voltage. It generates a square wave form and alters the length of the pulses so that the motor gets full voltage but for varying periods, thus limiting power without the heating effect of a rheostat type controller. There is no obvious difference to the end user as long as you don't want to measure the voltage as a means of measuring power.

It reverses perfectly well too, I don't have dynamic braking connected so this might complicate matters when reversing the polarity - i.e. allow the smoke to escape from the wiring!

 

Two of these cars are set at a constant speed via a "model railway" style controllers, while I am trying to control the 3ed car.

 

I've used a Triange train controller for years. Most train controllers will only supply about 1 amp per lane but I've never really found it a problem. Give it a try, the worst that can happen is that the cutout will keep tripping. If it's a twin controller you can power each lane separately which lets you adjust the voltage to help match cars or drivers.

 

The HM2000 Controller manual can be downloaded from https://www.hornby.com/us-en/downloads/view/index/cat/14/

The spec says the HM2000 has two outputs with a maimum current of 530mA each.

Typical homeset type cars take considerably more than 0.53 amps each when accelerating from rest, although a car might be within that when running at speed.

So on paper the HM2000 will be overloaded some of the time even with one output to each lane of a 2 lane analogue track.

So the short answer is the HM2000 isn't suitable.

Having firmly said I wouldn't recommend it, what might happen if you are determined to give it a try...........

Might you just about get away with it? Difficult to say, maybe the HM2000's overload cut out would just turn off the output when accelerating on full power, maybe it would tolerate the overload for long enough.
Might it damage something? Difficult to be sure. Theoretically the overload cut out should protect the HM2000 from damage.

Would it be any good for multiple cars in digital? NO

Would it be any good for cars with a little more power than the basic stock homeset type cars? NO

 

Thanks for the replies. Finally got round to trying it out and it does work.

I have a very small twisty track and I am trying to remove magnets from my newer cars. I find the motors much too powerful without magnets so using the controller allows me to reduce the speed. Cars with magnets work less well. They need the dial on full power. So far the controller has not cut out (or blown up) but I've not used it for any length of time.

Oh and the direction change switch doesn't make any difference.

Thanks again for your help.

 

Oh and the direction change switch doesn't make any difference.

The later powerbases were made for an AC input, and have a bridge rectifier inside.

This can and did cause failures when people used a DC PSU as all the current was running through two diodes not 4. At low power this will be OK, but beware upping the current.

And that is why reversing the voltage didn't change direction....

 

Good to hear it works.

If you turn down the voltage the motors will take less current when accelerating. So at reduced voltage you'd under 0.53 amps for a lot more of the time.

A lot of analogue Scalex power bases are designed for use with ac, They work well enough with dc, but the output always comes out with the same polarity whichever way round you connect the dc input - -- - - - - which is the reason why the direction change switch won't make any difference. If you want the direction change switch to work you'll have to connect the wires direct to the track instead of using the power base.

 

Perfectly OK for most S can motors, make sure you have the right polarity on the cars to avoid a red face when visiting another circuit.

 

I use an old Hornby train controller to power my test/tyre truing set up.The constant speed is great and I can run-in motors for long periods unattended.

 

Could you post a photo of your set up ? I’m also wanting to use a train controller but not sure how ? Would be greatly appreciated

 

Could you post a photo of your set up ? I’m also wanting to use a train controller but not sure how ? Would be greatly appreciated

 

A descent train controller will cost as much as a proper adjustable power supply, probably a lot more, and will have a lower power, amp, output and no displays for the voltage or amps.

 

Im not sure how everything would be wired up. Would 1 train controller only do one slot ?

 

A descent train controller will cost as much as a proper adjustable power supply, probably a lot more, and will have a lower power, amp, output and no displays for the voltage or amps.

I’m

A descent train controller will cost as much as a proper adjustable power supply, probably a lot more, and will have a lower power, amp, output and no displays for the voltage or amps.

Im not a racer so i would just like my cars going around the track at a set speed so I would also like to use a simple train controller with dial but I’m not sure how to do this as I’ve never really had a track set up. Do you have a picture of your model train controller set up ?

 

If I understand your usage correctly, you just want cars going around the track, hands free?

You have a couple options. Both cars same speed: substitute the track's power supply with the train controller/power. Put a rubber band around each car controller's trigger to keep it full on. Adjust the train controller to the desired speed.
To set up each car with its own speed would be more complex custom wiring and require two train controllers, each connected to just one lane.

 

What make of track do you have? Can you upload a picture of the powerbase you have. If you haven't figured out how to upload a picture yet then just click on the picture frame to the left camera icon below then click in the box and select the photo, it will load where the cursor is.

 

Sorry for being too vague as I’m just getting started.(been collecting instead of using) I’m using the original scalextric rubber track of the early 1960s. At the moment I’ve got the blue smooth flow transformer and that works fine with controllers. Most model train controllers I’ve seen have the power supply built in if I’m correct ? Would I need a separate power supply with a model train controller ? Also I would like to have cars on both lanes going round by themselves so would a second train controller be needed for the other lane ? Hope this explains what I am after clearer

 

You can buy just additional speed control units that connect to an existing transformer or you can buy a single train controller or a double controller.

At lease the track you are using makes things simple but you will need to kill two controllers as you need the wires that go to the track.

If you stick with your transformer and use two separate speed controllers just connect the controllers inputs to the transformers 12v output, same place the controllers connect to. then connect the track connection wires one each to the speed controllers output connections. If you buy a proper train controllers then a double one will have two controlled outputs and you connect the leads to these. If you use a single train controller then one lead goes to the controlled outputs and the separate speed controller goes to the 12v (fixed) DC outputs and the other lead then connects to controllers output.

You will then be able to control the speed of each car and the direction.

I would try and avoid modern controllers unless you can see the connections of the unit as a lot use dedicated or the round type plugs these days. You need one with the screw terminals like your transformer or the spring type terminals.

Something like this will also be easy to wire up as it has screw terminals and uses your transformer. I've never used one of these but would assume it would be fine

 

You can buy just additional speed control units that connect to an existing transformer or you can buy a single train controller or a double controller.

At lease the track you are using makes things simple but you will need to kill two controllers as you need the wires that go to the track.

If you stick with your transformer and use two separate speed controllers just connect the controllers inputs to the transformers 12v output, same place the controllers connect to. then connect the track connection wires one each to the speed controllers output connections. If you buy a proper train controllers then a double one will have two controlled outputs and you connect the leads to these. If you use a single train controller then one lead goes to the controlled outputs and the separate speed controller goes to the 12v (fixed) DC outputs and the other lead then connects to controllers output.

You will then be able to control the speed of each car and the direction.

I would try and avoid modern controllers unless you can see the connections of the unit as a lot use dedicated or the round type plugs these days. You need one with the screw terminals like your transformer or the spring type terminals.

Something like this will also be easy to wire up as it has screw terminals and uses your transformer. I've never used one of these but would assume it would be fine

Thank you so much for the detailed walk through I really appreciate it as someone who doesn’t have a clue lol. I will look into the pieces you mentioned and will update you on how it goes. Thanks again 👍🏻

 

That will work, may be a little low on amps at just 0.8 per output. Probably fine for standard cars but if you're running any Race Tuned cars you might have a problem on start up. Some motors can have a reasonable current draw just at the point of starting and you can't always tell by the motor. When I had my 1/43rd layout powered from my 1 amp train controller using the adjustable output to run a slave car with a slow startup never caused a problem but using the fixed 12v output through a controller with the same car and a quick start to full speed could trip the cutout.

 

Is there any way to increase the amps ?

 

Just to repeat, don't run high current through that powerbase. Or remove all 4 diodes and replace 2 diagonally with wire links.
Scalextric did have issues with powerbases overheating.

 

Hurricane95 is using original Scalextric rubber track so no powerbase, the controllers just connect to the transformer and directly to the track.

 

My bad, I read back to the start of the thread. Hurricane please ignore my comments.

 

Still, it was worth mentioning for the benefit of anyone else reading this thread at some point later.

 

For constant speed control, whilst a train controller should be fine if you've already got one, if you're going to need to buy something anyway, you might be better off with one of these (or similar), powered from a suitable (12ish volts and 1A or more) wall wart. I use one on my test/running in track. Dirt cheap and works perfectly.

 

That will be more or less what is inside the dimer I showed, just no box but will still work fine as long as your're happy with no box or can make your own. Just don't buy a box before you have them to hand as the measurements are +/- 10 to 30mm , Chinese quality control at it's best😂

One thing I forgot to mention with the power buck, and the lab supplies, you can limit the amps to each lane. Not that important for your usage but if you do some racing you can restrict each lane to just under half the available total amps and not have any sudden power surges when one car de-slots.