I have decided to start a new topic so as not to get confused with the first Dummies Guide - A link to the original guide that proved to have an unreliable relay is HERE
Recently, during a visit to RichG he and I talked about the Powered Flipper. Our discussions sparked some ideas and Rich contributed three really important aspects on the detail explained here.
1 - The use of a dual coil latching relay.
2 - Employing the flipper signals to activate the relay.
3 - The electrical connection to the flipper.
My first attempt at using a relay proved to be unreliable because I used a 12V relay. We discovered that although the track may be at 13.5V the trigger voltage for the Lane Changer was only at a nominal 9V.
There are now 2 versions of the dual coil latching relay that can be used, a 9V relay or a 5V relay with a 42 Ohms resistor in the circuit.
The relay is essentially 2 switches that can be operated by a pulse of electricity. Latching means that once the relay has been pulsed and switched it will stay in that position until it is pulsed to switch in the other direction.
When a voltage is pulsed to pins 1 and 5, pin 2 and the common pin 3 are connected and also independently pin 9 and the common pin 8 are connected.
When a voltage is pulsed to pins 10 and 6, pin 4 and the common pin 3 are connected and also independently pin 7 and the common pin 8 are connected.
![Image]()
![Image]()
You need one Dual Coil Latching Relay for each flipper - some wire, I used 3 core flat servo extension wire and some servo mounting tape both commonly used for RC servos, some electrical insulation tape and tools to do the job!
OMRON G6HK-2100 5DC - LINK
This is a 5V relay that will need to be used with a 42 Ohms resistor in order to reduce the 9V trigger voltage to the relay.
G6HK-2-DC9 - Omron - LINK
TQ2-L2-9V - Panasonic - LINK
Both of these relays are 9V- I ordered 20 of the TQ2-L2-9V from Mouser in the USA and with shipping to the UK they worked out to just about £2.50 each (around $5.00) Ordered Monday from the USA delivered Wednesday in the UK!
All of the relays above are just 5mm tall (with the pins bent out sideways) and they sit under the track perfectly.
The animation below should help you understand the process - it updates every 5 seconds
![Image]()
The Dummies Guide - The Straight Lane Changer
This is not difficult to do - you need to use a solder iron - I would rate it with a difficulty level 3/10
The instructions below are based on wiring the Right-Hand Flipper (viewed from the top). In reality you would work on the Left-Hand flipper at the same time.
Cut one length of 3 core flat wire - 190mm. Separate the cores for a length of 50mm and cut the white core back by 30mm and the black core back by 35mm
Cut another length 190mm and separate the white lead. Cut the remaining red and black leads to 90mm
![Image]()
Solder a link wire across pins 5 and 6 and then solder the leads of the 190mm flat wire to the relay pins as per the diagram. Red lead to pin 1, white lead to pin 10 and black lead to pin 6
![Image]()
![Image]()
Solder the 90mm black lead to pin 7, the red lead to pin 9 use heat shrink material on both of these leads as insulation. Solder the 190mm white lead to pin 8.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Remove the Sensor cover (3 screws) cut a slot in the cover and the matching track piece to create an exit for the wire (see image). Solder the 3 leads to the trigger pads in the order below (also see image). Replace the cover and screws.
![Image]()
RIGHT FLIPPER - The trigger wires already under the sensor board are coloured black, yellow and blue. To keep the lead flat, I've soldered it to the sensor board pads in the order black, red and white.
![Image]()
Create notches in the track for the leads to sit in.
![Image]()
Solder the black and red leads from pins 7 and 9 to the rails as indicated in the diagram and image. Tin the Rail Tabs with solder first.
![Image]()
Remover the Flipper cover (5 screws) Note: Once the cover is removed try to avoid turning the track over because the flipper actuating arms and pins may fall out. They can be put back together but it's just a bit fiddly.
Create a notch in the track (see image below) to hold the flipper wire contact.
![Image]()
Carefully, strip the end of the white lead by 30mm and coil it into a ball to create a good contactor for the flipper. Place it on top of the flipper and into the notch. Tape the lead to hold it in place. Replace the cover and screws. If you have a multi-meter it's a good idea to check the continuity between the flipper and the pin on the relay.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Fix relay to underside of track with Servo Tape.
![Image]()
*** IMPORTANT ***
It is critical to insulate the end of the flipper with a small piece of electrical tape - if an un-insulated flipper hits the rail before the relay has switched then a direct short occurs between the relay contactors and they will fail. Make sure that the flipper still moves freely after you have applied the tape!
![Image]()
The process for the left-hand flipper is the same but for neatness I've wired to the opposite side of the relay.
LEFT FLIPPER - The trigger wires already under the sensor board are coloured red, white and black. To keep the lead flat, I've soldered it to the sensor board pads in the order white, red and black.
If you use a 5V relay then the trigger voltage must be reduced by fitting a 42 Ohms resistor in the black trigger lead as shown below. One will be required for each relay
![Image]()
I've tested the flippers with the 9V and 5V relays for over 500 switches and you can stop on any flipper and just drive away
![Image]()
Enjoy!
Keith.
Next job the Curved Lane Changer…
Recently, during a visit to RichG he and I talked about the Powered Flipper. Our discussions sparked some ideas and Rich contributed three really important aspects on the detail explained here.
1 - The use of a dual coil latching relay.
2 - Employing the flipper signals to activate the relay.
3 - The electrical connection to the flipper.
My first attempt at using a relay proved to be unreliable because I used a 12V relay. We discovered that although the track may be at 13.5V the trigger voltage for the Lane Changer was only at a nominal 9V.
There are now 2 versions of the dual coil latching relay that can be used, a 9V relay or a 5V relay with a 42 Ohms resistor in the circuit.
The relay is essentially 2 switches that can be operated by a pulse of electricity. Latching means that once the relay has been pulsed and switched it will stay in that position until it is pulsed to switch in the other direction.
When a voltage is pulsed to pins 1 and 5, pin 2 and the common pin 3 are connected and also independently pin 9 and the common pin 8 are connected.
When a voltage is pulsed to pins 10 and 6, pin 4 and the common pin 3 are connected and also independently pin 7 and the common pin 8 are connected.
You need one Dual Coil Latching Relay for each flipper - some wire, I used 3 core flat servo extension wire and some servo mounting tape both commonly used for RC servos, some electrical insulation tape and tools to do the job!
OMRON G6HK-2100 5DC - LINK
This is a 5V relay that will need to be used with a 42 Ohms resistor in order to reduce the 9V trigger voltage to the relay.
G6HK-2-DC9 - Omron - LINK
TQ2-L2-9V - Panasonic - LINK
Both of these relays are 9V- I ordered 20 of the TQ2-L2-9V from Mouser in the USA and with shipping to the UK they worked out to just about £2.50 each (around $5.00) Ordered Monday from the USA delivered Wednesday in the UK!
All of the relays above are just 5mm tall (with the pins bent out sideways) and they sit under the track perfectly.
The animation below should help you understand the process - it updates every 5 seconds
The Dummies Guide - The Straight Lane Changer
This is not difficult to do - you need to use a solder iron - I would rate it with a difficulty level 3/10
The instructions below are based on wiring the Right-Hand Flipper (viewed from the top). In reality you would work on the Left-Hand flipper at the same time.
Cut one length of 3 core flat wire - 190mm. Separate the cores for a length of 50mm and cut the white core back by 30mm and the black core back by 35mm
Cut another length 190mm and separate the white lead. Cut the remaining red and black leads to 90mm
Solder a link wire across pins 5 and 6 and then solder the leads of the 190mm flat wire to the relay pins as per the diagram. Red lead to pin 1, white lead to pin 10 and black lead to pin 6
Solder the 90mm black lead to pin 7, the red lead to pin 9 use heat shrink material on both of these leads as insulation. Solder the 190mm white lead to pin 8.
Remove the Sensor cover (3 screws) cut a slot in the cover and the matching track piece to create an exit for the wire (see image). Solder the 3 leads to the trigger pads in the order below (also see image). Replace the cover and screws.
RIGHT FLIPPER - The trigger wires already under the sensor board are coloured black, yellow and blue. To keep the lead flat, I've soldered it to the sensor board pads in the order black, red and white.
Create notches in the track for the leads to sit in.
Solder the black and red leads from pins 7 and 9 to the rails as indicated in the diagram and image. Tin the Rail Tabs with solder first.
Remover the Flipper cover (5 screws) Note: Once the cover is removed try to avoid turning the track over because the flipper actuating arms and pins may fall out. They can be put back together but it's just a bit fiddly.
Create a notch in the track (see image below) to hold the flipper wire contact.
Carefully, strip the end of the white lead by 30mm and coil it into a ball to create a good contactor for the flipper. Place it on top of the flipper and into the notch. Tape the lead to hold it in place. Replace the cover and screws. If you have a multi-meter it's a good idea to check the continuity between the flipper and the pin on the relay.
Fix relay to underside of track with Servo Tape.
*** IMPORTANT ***
It is critical to insulate the end of the flipper with a small piece of electrical tape - if an un-insulated flipper hits the rail before the relay has switched then a direct short occurs between the relay contactors and they will fail. Make sure that the flipper still moves freely after you have applied the tape!
The process for the left-hand flipper is the same but for neatness I've wired to the opposite side of the relay.
LEFT FLIPPER - The trigger wires already under the sensor board are coloured red, white and black. To keep the lead flat, I've soldered it to the sensor board pads in the order white, red and black.
If you use a 5V relay then the trigger voltage must be reduced by fitting a 42 Ohms resistor in the black trigger lead as shown below. One will be required for each relay
I've tested the flippers with the 9V and 5V relays for over 500 switches and you can stop on any flipper and just drive away
Enjoy!
Keith.
Next job the Curved Lane Changer…
