[1 32 slotter]

Can't believe I missed this one tell now. Very cool. Will be watching your build the rest of the way for sure.
Joel

 

[Bluey]

I want to catch the first flight to WA once this is finished. Fair effort so far

 

[slasherman]

Nice track, the only thing I wonder about is how the lane changes are gonna work. Are the lane gonna run both ways, how are you gonna control the lane changes? But I'm new to this so I guess thats the reason I cant understand...

 

[r3k0]

Good work

 

[JamieG]

Good progress and interesting project to follow.
I am very interested on lane changers.

Cheers,
JamieG

 

[davoq]

Thanks for the kind comments guys.

slasherman, the circuit will be based on ninco digital at this stage. First up I will probably make the lane changers work as normal for ninco, you press the button on the controller and the flipper switches the car into the other lane. Later I will put sensors on the track to detect where the cars are and to allow them, where possible, to take the racing line without colliding. This will involve building some custom electronics and writing some software. I am building it myself as I have a strong interest in that area, but if you want this sort of thing off the shelf, have a look at the Scorpius system, they seem pretty advanced.

The circuit will be one way only, it has not been designed to run in reverse.

I have been playing around with the track weathering tips in a recent thread, good fun, just praticing at the moment, will post when I have something worth seeing.

Now, if I can just decide on the mechanical design of the lane changers!

 

[davoq]

Been a while since my last update, that's what happens when you get stuck and obsessed with flippers (lane changers). Flipper query thread

I've settled on a design and started building.

This is the first finished one (the tape on the track is only lightly stuck down, not burnished, to show the flipper in situ, so it's a bit wrinkly). Not as clean looking as the aluminium ones from Camber, might look better if I use one piece of wider tape. Any ideas of how to make the top look better are welcomed.

The flipper is cut out of 6mm Lexan and has tape on the top soldered to the bolt to allow the flipper to be powered.

It is sitting on a 3mm lexan "base" that is glued to a 9mm piece of MDF that has been painted black. The sides of the flipper have been painted gray in that picture.

The bolt is M3, on the underside there are three washers and two self locking nuts (thanks Cam). This is to keep the flipper in place, not too tight to allow it to rotate and to clamp the wire for powering the flipper.

The wire goes to the switch on the point motor. I am using the Peco PL10E point motor, strong, reliable and well engineered. I am also using the Peco PL12 mounting plate, it has a centre spring that acts to hold the flipper firmly in place in either the left or right switched positions. I found on my test track that WITHOUT this PL12 base, the flipper could get knocked out of place by passing cars. On top of the point motor is the Peco PL13 accessory switch, this is used to switch the power to the flipper in accordance with its position.

The whole flipper assembly is designed to push up into place in the hole cut in the track.

It is then screwed into place.

The benefit of this is that the flipper assembly can be set up and tested on the bench and can be dropped out at anytime for repairs or replacement.

The 3mm lexan "base" that the flipper sits on is cut to fit the hole in the track exactly, this ensures perfect aligment when the assembly is presented to the track and screwed into place.

The method I used for preparing templates to cut the Lexan was to first take a "brass rubbing" of the hole by holding down a piece of paper and rubbing over with a pencil.

I then scanned these rubbings into a computer and traced out the templates for the bases and the flippers using Photoshop (the pen tool was very handy). I printed out the templates and started cutting.

I used a jigsaw with blades designed for acrylic. These blades give a very smooth cut, makes a big difference. The first flipper pictured in this post was cut with a wood blade and is quite ragged.

I have now cut all of the bases and flippers and just need to push on with building the assemblies. Waiting for more supplies of point motor parts to arrive in the post.

Can't tape the track until the tarmac effect is painted using the air brush stippling method. I have laid down some backgroubd black with an airbrush in preparation for the stippling. Can't paint the tarmac effect until all the flipper assemblies are fitted with their bases to be sure that I don't need to cut up the track anymore.

Other developments on the track:

I have started putting up some back boards in preparation for painted backgrounds a scenery. They are 3mm MDF with mains powered LED lights from IKEA attached, they give a nice effect. The wires are run behind the boards.

That's all for now.

 

[Ember]

Looking very impressive.

 

[Camber]

Cool, love those lines, outstanding work

A tip I got from Injectorman is to use the silicon wire used to the braids of the more high end slot cars as the liven flipper wire. They may still eventually break, but should last a lot longer than normal wire.

Regards,

- Cam

 

[Bluey]

WOW!

Looks like it will be a blast to drive.

 

[davoq]

Thanks guys, I'm pleased with the lines too and also can't wait to drive it.

Interesting about the wires Cam, I will have to keep an eye on them when it is all fired up.

Starting to think about painting the backdrop, been looking at some videos on you tube of how to paint skies and clouds.

I am continually amazed at this hobby, it takes in so many different disciplines.

 

[Carl Jen and Harry]

Hi Davog, very nice track... I wish I had the space you have. My loft has very low eves and my sons bedroom is fast becoming more track than bed. I may have to build a shed soon. Keep up the good work it will be fantastic when its finished!

 

[ferraif40]

Hi

Looking great now matey! I love the final picture, with the banked corner in the foreground, looks like an absoloute blast to drive!

I also like the LED's and MDF on the wall, great idea, I might use that!

Regards
Jon

 

[sig]

wow ...just seen this...excellent curves, its itching to be some sort of a chase track, too radical to be a simple race theme.great work carpentry and electronics too...gonna be watching!

 

[f143]

Hi Davoq
Any updates to show

 

[davoq]

Thanks for the interest f143.

Not much to show at the moment, sorry. I've installed all the backdrop panels and painted them white, a nice blank canvas, I'll put up some pics at the weekend.

Just had the airconditioner installed today and it is definitely needed. The temperatures here have just hit the low thirties and the attic was very warm, not anymore!!!

Just come back from a holiday in Bali, very nice, but need to get back into the track.

I need to finish all the flippers and airbrush the effects onto the track, then I can tape and test!

 

[newbie tom]

hi davoq your track is an absolute inspiration. im just starting out in the slot car world and im really wanting to build a routed track in the loft and after seeing this it has gave me lots of great ideas but im not the imaginitive type. i have been trying to draw out a plan of the track but im getting no where theres a lot of screwed up balls of paper around. can i borrow your head for a while lol good luck with the rest cant wait to see the finish

 

[JamieG]

Hi Dave,
how do you intend to drive the peco motor? Is it with the standard Scaley sensor or do you find an alternate solution?

Very interesting also the flippers in lexan material.

Cheers,
jamieG

 

[davoq]

Thanks newbie tom, try starting by making some small test tracks, you'll get a good feel for how things work and make all your mistakes before you work on the big one.

Jamieg, I will be driving the Peco motors with my own custom electronics as I'm very interested in that area. I have already built working prototypes that integrate with the Ninco digital car chips.

As for the Lexan flippers, not so happy, the flippers have been a big sticking point for me. I'm not happy with the way they look once the tape is put on top. I am now in the process of cutting flippers out of 6mm Aluminium with a jigsaw and a special aluminium blade, it cuts suprisingly easily with the right blade. I'll post once I have something to show.

Lots of delays for me due to competition with other things in life, but that's fine. This hobby is for fun, no deadlines.

 

[Kellerkind]

Hi davoq,

dont be too afraid of the alu-flippers! I tested the alu version for my track, too. I found that it is easiest and most precise if cutted out little bit bigger (+0.5 to 1.0mm) and then sanded down (Protect eyes and airways!) to endsize with a dremel scewed on a plywoodplate to get a fixed 90degree angle. If sandingtool is fine enough you get good results - already like CNC (

) By the way: Great track!

Regards Jens